The moment the ferry pulls away from the harbor in Woods Hole, I release the breath I haven’t realized I’ve been holding. That’s the effect Martha’s Vineyard has on me. It’s a small thing, but it’s the signal that I’ll be on the island soon, a world away from the stress-filled streets of Boston, where I live and work.
I’ve been going to Martha’s Vineyard for 20-plus years, first as a young tourist on the back of a moped (the one and only time doing that), later spending summer vacations there with my family and introducing my daughter to the joys of swimming in the ocean, and then finally discovering the secret pleasures of visiting in the off-season, now my favorite time to go.
The Vineyard, which is seven miles off the Cape’s coast and encompasses about 100 square miles, is made up of six different towns, each quite distinct from the other, each with its own compelling charms.
When the ferry arrives, you’ll either be in Oak Bluffs, the island’s main tourist hub, or in Vineyard Haven, home to the island’s year-round ferry port. Edgartown is famous for its historic 18th-century whaling captains’ houses. Further afield are the towns of Aquinnah, with its picture-perfect clay cliffs and the Gay Head Lighthouse, Chilmark, made up of quiet fishing villages and my favorite lobster roll in the world, and, West Tisbury with its acres of rolling farmland.
A three-car ferry can also quickly zip you over to the island of Chappaquiddick, located just 527 feet off the Vineyard’s eastern coast, where you’ll encounter awesome birdwatching and secluded beaches.
Since my day job involves a lot of traveling, which takes me to unfamiliar places on a regular basis, when I’m enjoying time off I revel in familiar and cherished spots, to the point of being upset with menu updates at a longtime favorite restaurant—unreasonable, I know! But, most of the island’s charms remain unchanging, hopefully for years to come.
Since my day job involves a lot of traveling, which takes me to unfamiliar places on a regular basis, when I’m enjoying time off I revel in familiar and cherished spots.
A hike through the Mass Audubon Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary is always a delight. I’ll always root for one lucky child to grab the brass ring at the Flying Horses Carousel in Oak Bluffs. I will forever find the Mytoi Japanese Garden on Chappaquiddick a relaxing place to wander through. And the challenging waves at South Beach are always a thrill.
For me, food is an integral part of any trip and a single dish can evoke a cherished moment in time as easily as a photograph. While restaurants and bars certainly do come and go on the island—it’s a tough business, after all—there are a few that have managed to stick around since I’ve been visiting.
The Black Dog Tavern is an institution. On a cold winter’s day, there’s nothing better than sitting by the fire with a bowl of chowder and a beer. The Newes From America Pub, also open year-round, is another island mainstay; its cozy pub vibe feels like a warm embrace.
Other favorites include Giordano’s, where the cheesy garlic bread is to die for, Offshore Ale Co., where the potato pizza is a revelation, and for sheer fun, Sharky’s Cantina, please order the Escorpion Bowl for two to go with its Mexican comfort food.
Finally, you must try the best, and my favorite, lobster roll in the world, at Larsen’s Fish Market in Chilmark. They pick the lobster in front of you, pile it onto a hot dog bun and slather it with hot butter.
This is what memories are made of.
3 More New England Island Getaways We Love
Those looking for an upscale island escape, need look no further than Nantucket. Located about 30 miles off the coast of Massachusetts, Nantucket has a reputation for catering to the super wealthy—which is true—but, it is also a nature lover’s dream. Forty percent of the island is protected conservation land, which means gorgeous undeveloped expanse, perfect for hiking, biking and communing with nature. Nantucket, which is 14 miles long by 3.5 miles wide, is easy to get around by bike, so you can leave your car on the mainland. City dwellers are transported in mere minutes to a different place entirely, all without losing sight of the Commonwealth capital’s skyline. The Boston Harbor Islands, composed of 34 pint-sized landmasses, is both a state and national park. It also offers an ideal day trip (although you can camp overnight on four of the islands). Activities include everything from hiking to swimming to live music concerts. Most first-time visitors head to either Georges Island—home to Civil War-era Fort Warren, which is open to explore on your own or on a guided tour with a park ranger—and Spectacle Island, which has a fascinating history (once a landfill, among other things), but today offers a sandy beach (with lifeguards), miles of trails and stunning views. Located off the coast of Portland, Maine, the Casco Bay Islands are composed of several islands, six of which are accessible year-round. The laid-back place evokes a time past, reinforced by the minimal if nonexistent use of cars. Peaks Island is closest to Portland and has amenities such as cafes, shops, museums and galleries, in addition to beaches. Great Diamond, which was home to historic Fort McKinley, offers plenty of secluded beaches, a small museum, a couple of restaurants and the Inn at Diamond Cove, an excellent place to unplug for a weekend getaway.